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Golden Nugget Shark Tank Pool

(images via: roadsidepictures, bourgeoisbee and dasroofless)

The Golden Nugget Las Vegas mega-casino spent $20 million to create an unforgettable oceanic experience for its hotel and casino guests. The casino’s crown jewel is an enormous 200-thousand gallon shark tank that is entirely surround by an impressive swimming pool and cabanas. To really get up close and personal with the sharks circling the tank, then take a wet and wild ride down the 3-story waterslide ending in the refreshing crystal clear waters in the pool beneath.

Swimming Pool Maintenance Tips

By Priya Johnson
www.buzzle.com

 By Rujuta Borkar

Published: 12/7/2010www.buzzle.com 

The following article will take you through the occurrence of phosphates in pool water and what one is to do about them. Continue reading for more information.

You really don’t want or need phosphates in the pool water because they are the curse put on pool sanitation and cleanliness. Seriously. Phosphates can give rise to the growth of algae and moss and needless to say, that is not how a pool should be. The worst part is that even a small amount or a low concentration of phosphates in the water can lead to the growth of algae in pool water which not only makes the pool slippery but can also give rise to the growth of several organisms thereby making the swimming pool unhygienic and unsafe to swim in. There is therefore the need to understand how to eliminate phosphates from the pool water so that there is no impending threat to one’s health. In the article that follows we shall study some of the ways in which we can dispel the phosphates from pool water. But before that, let’s understand a little something more about the occurrence of phosphates in the water.

What Causes Phosphates in Water

How do these phosphates develop and invariably lead to algae growth? There are several reasons that can lead to the formation of these phosphates. Here are some of them:

• Unclean pool water
• Decaying matter (plant)
• Acid rain
• Fertilizers
• Ground water runoff
• Bird wastes
• Bodily waste like urine and sweat
• Bather waste
• Contaminated well water
• Mineral treatment chemicals
• Soil contamination
• Sprays
• Dead skin cells

Any of these factors could lead to phosphates in pool water and lend the pool a very cloudy appearance with algae that is either green algae, mustard or brownish in color. Along with that the pool bottom and sides will be slippery and extremely slimy to touch. It will also mean that the water will have to be changed faster.

Not only are conditions like these difficult to swim in, but are also dangerous and a virtual threat especially for children, that’s why there is a need for eliminating these phosphates. Let us learn how to go about that in the remainder of this article.

Removing the Phosphates

The danger of having phosphates in the pool has already been conveyed to you and harping on that shall serve no purpose, so then let’s get into the methods by which we can clear out the pool of phosphates.

Chlorine/Bromine Levels
Chlorine has always formed a very important part of pool water cleaning and maintaining the sanitation of the pool. Maintaining high levels of bromine or chlorine is therefore known to prevent the onset of algae. If the algae already exists and the phosphates need to be removed, then there is a need to carry out a pool shock treatment to rid the pool algae – which means that a sudden and large dosage of chlorine/bromine will be added to the pool water which will help to clear out the phosphates. This is done once every week to oxidize environmental and organic wastes.

Maintaining Pool Specifics
Maintaining a good pH and water balance will prevent the growth of phosphates. For this, the calcium hardness should be 200-250 ppm, the alkalinity of the pool should be 125-150 ppm and the pH balance should be 7.4-7.6.

Aluminum/Lanthanum Compounds
These are added to the swimming pool filter media or cartridge and they form a film over the filter media. Such that every time the phosphates pass over it they club together and can therefore be easily removed.

Along with these methods, it is also important to maintain high levels of hygiene and sanitation both in the pool and before entering it. Therefore taking a shower before and after a swim becomes extremely important.

Phosphates in pool water can cause tremendous problems and discomfort, not to mention the threat that they lead to. Therefore there is a need to clean the pool and rid it of the phosphate content. And now that you know how, make sure that your pool is always clean and clear.

By Rujuta Borkar
Published: 12/7/2010

Pool Deck Resurfacing by www.buzzle.com

By Scholasticus K

Pool decks are constantly weathered and are also subjected to frequent use. The following article is an elaboration of the concept of pool deck resurfacing. Explore some DIY pool deck resurfacing options.

Are you bored of the pool deck that surrounds your pool? Does it seem to wear off day by day, and seem even more dirty and ugly? Well, here is what really happens to a pool deck.

The deck of the swimming pool is subject to maximum weathering and wear and tear. The pool deck is subjected to many natural weathering elements, like the sun, rain, wind and in some cases, even snow. This same deck is also subjected to wear and tear, that is inflected by man. Whenever the swimming pool is used, the water that splashes out also causes pool deck erosion. The constant exposure of the pool deck, makes moss and a number of microorganisms accumulate on the deck. As the pool deck grows older, you will notice several dark patches growing on the surface.

When you see such kind of patches on the pool deck, then it is time for you to have the pool deck resurfaced. Pool deck resurfacing is a relatively simple process, where the surface of the pool deck is replaced with a new one. One must note that during the process of resurfacing, the foundations of the pool and its deck are not disturbed. The following are some of the prominent pool deck resurfacing methods.

Stone Finish
Stone finish is a very convenient option due to its durability. The stone finish pool deck resurfacing is done by embedding large stones, finely cut into a layer of concrete. This type of pool deck resurfacing, is probably the best type of finish, as it not only looks good, but has many advantages over the other methods of pool deck resurfacing. The stone finish type of decks are highly effective due to the durability that they offer. Another very good advantage of these types of surfaces, is that they provide a very good natural friction. This natural friction proves to be very useful, as it is almost slip proof.

Stamped Concrete Finish
Stamped concrete is another very widely used pool deck resurfacing method. This type of resurfacing is very common, due to the fact that is very easy and cheap to resurface the pool deck with the help of stamp concrete. This type of surface is very similar to the stone finish. However, it does not have the same charm, friction and level of comfort. One of the demerits of stamp concrete finish, is that it is very inconvenient and costly to repair or replace this type of surface.

Wooden Finish
Among the swimming pool deck resurfacing options, the most expensive is the wooden finish of the pool deck. The wooden finish is also very expensive to repair and requires a lot of care. Installing and using such a pool deck requires a rather huge budget. The wooden deck provides a very good amount of friction and is also slip proof.

Brick and Tile Finish
The brick and tile finish is a very good and cheap option, that is being used for pool deck resurfacing. This surface provides a very good amount of friction when you walk on it and is also slip proof. The surface is very durable and can also be repaired easily.

Before opting for a pool deck resurfacing, one must remember, that any kind of surface requires a lot of care. Keep in mind the pros and cons of all the surfaces when you choose your pool deck design plans. Keeping the surface clean and in regular use ensures durability, though one cannot fully avoid the micro organic growth on the surface of the pool.

By Scholasticus K

From http://www.about.com

Swimming as an organized activity goes back as far as 2500 B.C. in ancient Egypt and later in ancient Greece, Rome, and Assyria. In Rome and Greece, swimming was part of the education of elementary age boys and the Romans built the first swimming pools (separate from bathing pools). The first heated swimming pool was built by Gaius Maecenas of Rome in the first century BC. Gaius Maecenas was a rich Roman lord and considered one of the first patron of arts – he supported the famous poets Horace, Virgil, and Propertius, making it possible for them to live and write without fear of poverty. However, swimming pools did not became popular until the middle of the 19th century. By 1837, six indoor pools with diving boards were built in London, England. After the modern Olympic Games began in 1896 and swimming races were among the original events, the popularity of swimming pools began to spread – Reference Britannica

by MARK KNOWLES on JUNE 11, 2008

The Four Seasons resort in Bali has a pool overlooking the jungle 50 feet off the ground. You cross a wooden bridge to get to the pool.

A Pool Routine for Every Level: Beginner

Why try it? You’ll blast fat while sculpting your major muscles. Plus, little impact means no shin splints, sore feet, or knee pain.

It’s not just about swimming laps. Try intervals or drills to increase your speed, endurance, and overall fitness, says Maria Mason, swim coach at Reebok Sports Club/NY in New York City.

It’s a Zen way to get fit. No honking horns or pounding music to contend with — it’s just you and the water.

Beginner

The basics: Swim freestyle, using your rate of perceived exertion (RPE, or how hard the workout feels on a scale of 1 to 10) where indicated. Distances are based on a 25-yard pool (one length); to do these routines, you should feel comfortable swimming at least 100 yards without stopping.

You’ll need a kickboard, fins, and a watch or clock with a second hand (available at most public pools).

You just swam 750 yards!

You just swam 1,200 yards!

Advanced

You just swam 1,800 yards (i mile)

3 Ways to Be a Better Swimmer

1. Focus on form: When swimming freestyle, look at the bottom of the pool, pressing chest down and keeping head, hips, and feet at the surface. If your head and chest are too high, your legs and hips will drop, creating drag. As you take a stroke, reach forward just under the surface, extending your arm from your shoulder when your hand enters the water. Pull the water toward you, then keep elbow high as you pull your arm back. Try to maintain a constant strong, fast, small kick. Begin by kicking from the hips (not the knees), keeping your ankles floppy and relaxed.

2. Breathe better: The smoothest swimmers practice “bilateral” breathing, or breathing alternately on right and left sides. To do it, turn your body to either side every time you take a breath.

3. Roll with it: Avoid lifting your whole head to breathe. Instead, roll your body on one side so your chest faces the side of the pool as your arm pushes down and leaves the water. Keep your ear in the water as you take a breath and the corner of your mouth at the surface.

Not a Fish? Start Here!

A Gallup Poll survey found that 46 percent of American adults are afraid in deep water in pools. Luckily, there are plenty of ways to conquer your fears. These drills will help make you a stronger swimmer and boost your confidence.

1. Practice by kicking in the shallow end of the pool. Start out wearing fins for extra power. Keep your arms extended in front of you, holding a kickboard, and keep your face in the water, looking at the bottom. Turn your body to one side to breathe every few seconds.
2. Once you feel comfortable, try rolling your body to either side every third kick.
3. Take short, quick kicks, generating from the hip. Now add in a freestyle stroke, breathing every third stroke.

By www.poolsolutions.com

There’s no universal guide to opening swimming pools . . . . and there never will be. There are too many different kinds of swimmnig pools, in different kinds of places, using different kinds of chemicals, and used by different kinds of swimmers.

It seems like each pool demands at least one thing different from all the rest. Still there are some tasks that are necessary, or at least a good idea, on almost all pools.

1. Test your pool water, BEFORE you uncover your pool. Then, make sure you have the chemicals you’ll need on hand.
2. Make sure you’ve got all those little plugs that came out of the multiport valve, filter, and pump. Folks often lose one or two over the winter and then discover it’s impossible to start up their pool without having all of them. Check first, and get what you need from your dealer, before you try to open the pool. (Want a possible place to keep them safe, next year? After removing them, put them ALL in the pump strainer basket, and then put the lid back on the pump.)

   Check your filter pressure gage. If you’ve allowed it to freeze, it won’t read accurately. How do you check it? It’s easy: just take a look, and see if it reads “0″. Usually, if it is, it’s OK. But, if the needle is pointing somewhere else, replace it.

3. If you are converting from Baquacil, Softswim or another form of PHMB to chlorine, have replacement filter media on hand BEFORE you start, but don’t use it, till AFTER the PHMB is gone. The conversion process is likely to further damage filter media that is already gummed up.
4. Inventory the chemicals left over from last year, and plan to use them first. If you have chemicals you don’t need, or can’t use, try to give them to a friend who will use them. Failing that, if you are going do drain your pool, you may be able to add the chemicals to the pool before you drain. (Do NOT do this with copper algaecides, unless you want to be responsible for a fish kill!)
5. When you open any stored chlorine chemicals for the first time, do so OUTSIDE, and stand UPWIND when you do! Stored chlorine chemicals often have some noxious chlorine based gases present: you won’t enjoy getting a snoot full of these. (This also applies to old bromine tabs.)
6. Try to avoid using a bunch of foamy algaecides or foamy tile line cleaners. These can create a chlorine demand in your pool that won’t quit. This means you’ll add chlorine, and add chlorine, and nothing will seem to happen. This is NOT A GOOD THING.
7. Check your test kits. You need a reliable accurate one and NO teststrips, unless your goal is to help Biolab and LaPorte meet their corporate profit goals. If you don’t know how to use them, sit at your kitchen table, and practice on your tap water, now. You can even call your local water company, and get fairly accurate reports on what readings you are likely to find. You can then compare your results, with the range they report.
8. Unless you are using an ionizer, or a copper based system like Pristine Blue, your very first act on uncovering the pool should be to shock the heck out of it. If you’ve got a chlorinated pool, use cal hypo or bleach to shock; if you’ve got a PHMB pool, use peroxide. (Remember, the pump MUST BE RUNNING WHEN YOU ADD CHEMICALS.) (This does not mean, guys, that you should dump ALL that old chlorine in, without figuring out how big a dose that is. With liner pools in particular, NUKING the pool can also NUKE your liner. This, also, is NOT A GOOD THING.)
9. Your next act should be to get the pH somewhere between 7.2 and 8.0, if it’s not already there. If it’s way off, do NOT try to fix it in one dose. Adjust gradually, but quickly, instead. Dose, circulate for 4 hours, retest, and re-dose as needed.
10. 11. Do NOT try to adjust the pH, the alkalinity, and the calcium levels on the same day. Do pH, then calcium (if needed), then alkalinity. Trying to do it all at once is a recipe for cloudy water from precipitated calcium carbonate; do this, and you can end up with an underwater visibility of about 4 inches!
11. If you’ve got a bunch of leaves in your pool, unless you are going to drain the pool, the best way to get them out is with a Leaf Master type device. It’s still slow, but it’s much better than vacuuming them, or using a leaf net. I’d recommend getting either the Rainbow or Jandy unit. There are some crummy knock-off’s out there, that you want to avoid. There are some that are OK, too, but you won’t be able to tell the difference till you get them home. The real deal is usually around $35 – $45, unless it’s being sold as a “loss leader” which does happen.
12. There are no magic wands for green slime pits.
    • Filtering, shocking, brushing, vacuuming . . . repeated again and again, will work in almost all cases. But, it’s expensive and tedious.
    • Using the chloramine generating systems, such as Yellow OUT, Yellow Rid and other ammonia based products, to produce high levels of monochloramine may work. But this is a tricky method, and its success depends not just on WHAT chemicals you use, but also on HOW you use them. For example, iIf you don’t get the pH right first, you can produce bunches of useless and obnoxious dichloramine, or even nitrogen trichloride.
      (Be careful not to confuse the AMMONIA based products with the BROMIDE based products, such as Yellow Treat and Yellow Free. They are sold for the same purpose, but are completely different in chemistry.)
    • Draining and refilling can be dangerous for. It can destroy liner pools, and “yes, Virginia”, empty concrete pools really can float out of the ground. This is even more likely with fiberglass pools. But, done right, draining and refilling is usually the quickest solution. It can also allow access to the pool’s surface, if there are stains that need to be removed.